Process Guide · 6 min read
Underwear Waistband Options Explained
On a plain garment the waistband is the brand. It is also the part most buyers leave to the factory default, which is why so many ranges look the same.
Underwear has almost no surface area for branding. There is no chest, no sleeve and no collar. What is left is the waistband, and the technic you choose there decides whether a garment reads as a brand or as a blank.
The Four Main Technics
| Technic | How it is made | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Jacquard | The brand name or pattern is woven into the elastic during manufacture. | Brand programmes. It cannot crack, peel or wash off because it is structural. |
| Printed | Artwork printed onto a finished elastic band. | Multi colour artwork, seasonal stories, lower setup cost. |
| Coated | A coated finish applied to the band surface. | A smooth, slightly technical look on sport and premium styles. |
| Embroidered | Embroidery worked onto the band. | Texture and depth, usually on womens and premium ranges. |
Why Jacquard Is The Default For Brands
A printed logo sits on the surface of the elastic and eventually cracks and peels. A jacquard band has the name woven into it, so there is nothing to come off. It costs more and it has a longer lead time because the band has to be woven to order, but it is the reason established underwear brands are recognisable at arm’s length.
Width Is A Design Decision
Band width changes the whole proportion of a garment, and on thongs and string constructions it more or less is the garment. It should be specified in the tech pack rather than left to whatever the factory has on the shelf.
Lead Time
A woven band is a separate supply line with its own lead time. On brand programmes the waistband is usually set up at the same time as the print strike off so that both land together and the sampling round is not wasted waiting for one of them.
Other Finishes
- Covered elastic - the elastic is encased in the body fabric, used where a visible band is not wanted.
- Fold over elastic - folded over the raw edge, common on womens panties and childrenswear.
- Bonded edge - no elastic at all, used on seamless and premium panty blocks for an invisible line.
