Woven and Non-Woven Interlining A Buying Guide for Garment Factories

Fusible and Sew In Interlining Solve Different Problems

Fusible interlining carries a heat activated adhesive on one face and bonds to the shell fabric under a press. It saves the time of stitching a separate lining and keeps the hand of a collar or cuff flat. Sew in interlining has no glue and must be tacked or stitched into the garment. It is chosen when the shell cannot take press temperature, when the piece must drape without stiffness, or when the interlining is part of the structural build rather than a surface stiffener.

Read Weight in Grams per Square Metre

Interlining weight is quoted in g/m2 and it is the single number that tells you how much body the piece will add. A light 23 g/m2 such as hot fuse S030 supports a shirt front or a small patch without changing the drape of the cloth. A heavy 140 g/m2 such as the overcoat woven interlining gives a chest piece or a lapel the resistance it needs to hold its roll. Match the weight to the thickness of the shell, not to the fashion of the garment.

Width in Inches and Centimetres Changes How You Cut

Interlining is sold by the roll and the width decides how many pattern pieces fit across it. A 44 inch roll and a 100 cm roll are close but not identical, so the marker must be set to the actual width supplied. A 60 inch roll lets you lay long pieces such as coat fronts or trouser waistbands end to end with fewer seams. Always confirm the width in the same unit your marker uses before you commit a colour to a programme.

PA Glue and Other Adhesive Types

The glue on a fusible is what holds it after washing. PA, polyamide, is a common type used on woven interlining such as the 60 inch 140 g/m2 overcoat grade, chosen for its bond strength and its behaviour under repeated laundering. Different glue families vary in how they feel through the cloth, how much press temperature they need and how they survive dry cleaning. Ask for the glue type before you sample, because a bond that passes on the first wash can fail on the third.

Three Reference Grades and Where They Sit

Black carbon horse tail interlining at 65% polyester 23% wool 12% cotton in 44 inch is a woven sew in grade used where a tailored edge must spring back rather than sit flat. Overcoat woven interlining 60 inch 140 g/m2 with PA glue is a heavy fusible for outerwear fronts and collars. Hot fuse interlining S030 at 23 g/m2 in 100 cm is a light fusible for shirt cuffs, plackets and small facings. These three span the range from a soft structured edge to a crisp bonded surface.