Silk Weave Types Compared For Garments And Accessories

Charmeuse And Satin

Silk charmeuse is also called silk satin. The satin construction gives a bright, smooth, dense face and a softer matte back. It is the usual choice for sleepwear, linings, pillowcases and scarves where shine is wanted.

Twill

Twill weaves on a diagonal, which gives the cloth more body than a plain weave at the same weight. It creases less readily and is the classic scarf construction, especially at 14 to 18 momme.

Crepe De Chine And Crepe Satin

Crepe de chine uses twisted yarn to produce a fine grainy surface with a quiet lustre. Crepe satin is satin on one face and crepe on the other, so one piece of cloth offers two finishes.

Chiffon, Georgette And Organza

Chiffon is a sheer plain weave that drapes softly. Georgette is also sheer but drier and grainier in the hand. Organza is woven from degummed yarn and stays crisp and transparent, which makes it a structural fabric rather than a draping one.

Habotai

Habotai, also called paj, is a smooth plain weave with the same face on both sides. Light habotai is the standard base for silk painting and dyeing, and heavier habotai is used for linings.